The Summer of 2015

Posted: December 28, 2015 in 2015

thumb_DSC02319_1024OK…it’s a new summer…2015.  The summer is full of family events so Bonnie and I decide to make our goal at the property smaller than 2014.  Our hope this summer is to complete the garage and pour the foundation for the cabin(to be built in 2016).  If you remember we left the garage with a tarp only so one step will be to install a metal roof.  IMG_0419The floor of the garage is gravel so a cement slab is on our list.  Garage doors will need to be built as well as a side door.  Also we will need to level our land as well as develop our septic system for the future cabin.  All this plus a family reunion in Colorado and a graduation in Florida makes for IMG_0424a busy summer.  So instead of pushing to start on our cabin Bonnie and I decided to plan an ‘easy’ summer.  Unlike the summer of 2014 I had our permits for the foundation in hand prior to our arrival.  But the first job we tackled after building our campsite was theIMG_0773


IMG_0426excavation of our property.  The before and after photos show the difference.  When we bought the property it was covered by 12-15′ Douglas Fir…with stumps and rolling terrain.  As we excavated the small trees we developed two huge burn piles.  I didn’t realize just how stubborn those piles could be to burn.  IMG_1938Bonnie sure had fun spraying diesel on the flames to encourage heat.  Her favorite pastime became burning the second pile slowly but surely one branch at a time.  IMG_0779Jack brought his excavator in to groom our acre.  He used a 9′ I-beam with skill.  He needed to sloop the ground in the best way to allow the rain to run off and not flood the structures.  Now it is nicely groomed and ready for living.  IMG_0449IMG_0445On the same days we were able to dig trenches and add piping for our gravity fed septic system.  We have 200′ of drain field and a tank large enough for a three bedroom home.  This summer I will be setting up our privy next to the tank and piping our toilet directly into it.  Our next job was to add the metal roof to our 2x6TG and felt.  We chose a brick red color and 12″ width metal.  Rob and Dwayne had experience so I stood back and played the gofer.  IMG_4156IMG_0544A decision we had to make was ‘how much insulation if any’?  If we went with the same insulation as we will put on our cabin…it would have cost 5k.  Of course we could have spent less for less ‘R factor’.  We decided to go with no insulation at all.  Our thinking was that in the first place it was a garage and will be used sparingly for ‘living quarters’.  Second, we will primarily be at our property during the summer.  Lastly, I will probably have a small wood stove eventually.  thumb_DSC02336_1024thumb_DSC02338_1024
Next was our slab floor in the garage.  Again, Rob and his dad(Dwayne) were my ‘go to’ guys.  A thick layer of crushed gravel then covering of plastic keeps the moisture off your cement…plus it helps to slow down the setting up of the cement while you are smoothing and finishing.  Tom and Yvonne traveled from North Carolina to visit us in Washington.  thumb_DSC02349_1024thumb_DSC02352_1024They arrived precisely on the day we poured.  Coincidence?  Or could I have timed the cement truck perfectly?  I’ll never tell.   It is always special to have friends visit…wether they are able to help out or just to share a camp fire.  IMG_5013thumb_DSC02404_1024Kim and Chris also helped during the summer…thanks guys!  IMG_0788IMG_5073Probably my favorite time of the summer was when Craig my son stopped by for 4-5 days.  We hadn’t been able to spend much time together in a while so this time was special.  The project of the week was to build the swinging barn doors for the garage.  First a good friend of mine Cory, came out for a weekend and installed some fantastic casings for the doors.  IMG_4757While I added an 18″ wall between the doors, Cory went to work on the casing.  2×12 kiln dried red cedar.  Built to absolute perfection.  IMG_4763Square…plum…straight…level…and any other way you can say ‘perfection’.  If the doors wouldn’t swing it wouldn’t be Cory’s fault.  IMG_4770Cory even got the bonus of IMG_5457spotting some elk on the way out.  After Cory gave us a great ‘foundation’ of wood…Craig and I set out to build the doors.  I could have just hired a garage door builder and had some standard metal doors.  But how would that have looked on a log cabin?  I wanted wood…and I wanted the challenge.  IMG_0916I used a 2×6 cedar frame…on top of 7/8″ verticals…and mirror-framed on the inside by cedar 1×6 with a diagonal piece to boot.  I added 8″x30″ windows by making the cutout then framing the cutout with 2x with rabbits made with my table saw for the plastic slider windows.  Making the framing and windows myself saved at least $100 per window.  IMG_4945This coming summer I will add elk antlers as door knobs.  I ordered 18″ strap hinges and had my metal guy Pete weld extra backing plates to accommodate the large ends of the logs.  IMG_0786It was tricky getting all the hinges to line up as the logs of course are random.  The large custom made back plates helped me to lag the hinges to the log ends correctly.  We made sure to seal each piece of wood with Sikkens Cetol ProLux sealer.

Summer of 2014 Closing Thoughts

Posted: October 28, 2014 in Uncategorized

It was a long ‘summer'(actually April 15-October 30).  My friends were right…it did take longer to accomplish just about everything.  But we did put the log garage up…we did get it ‘weathered’ in…we did establish water and power.  I was tired but ecstatic.  This was the first property I had developed and I learned a lot.  builders' blissBonnie and I want to thank everyone who spent time helping us that first summer.  Thank you from the bottom of our hearts.  It took a lot of people to accomplish what we accomplished.  Bonnie and I left ‘Elk Lookout Ranch’ that summer wiser and ready to complete our log cabin ‘dream’ the following summer.

Sealing The Logs

Posted: October 15, 2014 in Finishing Logs
Before pressure washing

Before pressure washing

IMG_2568Take care of your logs and they will take care of you.  The pressure washing took care of the mold that had spread while laying on the ground over the summer.  Prepping the logs for sealing…grinding the knots flat(I used my 4″grinder with a coarse wood disk)…took maybe 20 hours.  Left jagged the knots would be dangerous to walkers by.  Besides it made the logs look finished.  IMG_2126Now it was time to seal the weather out.  There are many choices on the market for sealing logs/wood.  I went with Jack’s experience and choose Sikkens Prolux Cetol Log/Siding Sealer.  $350-$400 per 5gallons.  Quite a bit to spend until you think about all that you have into your log structure both time and money…and you consider the frequency of re-application later.  Spend it.  It took 10 gallons to cover one coat over our 24×30 garage.  I am in the process of adding a second coat.  That should protect the logs for four years.  Remember, the eaves and gable ends do the most protecting.  FYI-you can buy Behrs sealer for $130 for 5 gallons.  Go with experience…Sikkens.  For the 2x6TG eaves and gable ends we decided to use an exterior paint instead of the Sikkens.  That should keep things protected for 10 years.  You loose the wood grain but we thought it was worth the extra protection and less effort overall.  We choose a ‘light cream’ color to match the yellow 2×6 wood.  

Kim and Chris came out to help us many times over the two years.  Tom and Yvonne spent close to a week pitching in doing anything from concrete work to painting and sealing.  Thanks guys!  Sure it helps bunches to have friends come and help…but it is wonderful to spend time with friends side by side talking, laughing, sometimes struggling and campfires at night.  This log cabin will have so very many memories ‘built in’ by the time we get done.  Priceless.  Kim and Chris have spent hours and hours on our multiple trails down to the river.  We hope in the future to build a treehouse closer to the river down one of those trails.

Roof Roof.

Posted: October 13, 2014 in Garage Roof

The next step is the 2×6 TG(tongue &groove) decking on top of the rafters.  Remember, these rafters are trees…peeled…not milled to perfection.  Yes, we laid them as best we could to maintain a semblance of uniformity(levelness) but they looked pretty gnarly IMG_2515to me.  IMG_2514As we laid the 2×6 I watched for any ‘high’ spots and took care of them with the chainsaw.  We had a whole crew out to put up the 2×6 but it still took two days.  The weather was deteriorating since it was now into October so we didn’t get the metal roof up but instead had to settle with the famous ‘Blue Roof’…at least famous here in the state of Washington.  The IMG_2598IMG_2610‘Blue Roof’ held all winter and in the summer of 2015 we were able to install the real metal roof.  We decided to forgo any type of insulation for the garage.  It would have added $3-5k  so we will live with our choice.  You can be sure we will install some very good roof insulation in our cabin.

Stacking Logs!

Posted: September 15, 2014 in Stacking Logs

IMG_2428-2OK…now for the fun part…building the structure!  STACKING LOGS!  I know most of you probably skipped straight to this part…I would have…but it sure took a lot of work to get to this point. More than I had expected.  Each one of you will be in unique situations when it comes to building a log cabin.  FYI…it will be much easier and cheaper if you find property WITH power, septic and water already installed.  If you are like me you don’t follow the easy path…you like what you like and are willing to do what it takes to make that happen.  IMG_2422Our logs had laid on the ground since May and I was anxious to get this garage ‘weathered in’ before the weather turned bad.  With the building permit issues mentioned earlier it was mid-September before we put our first ‘sil’ log on the foundation wall.  Bonnie and I were fortunate enough to have friends Jack and Sharon(who teach log cabin building in their school the “Onalaska School of Log Cabin Building”  www.onalaskalogbuildingschool.com) come out to help us through the process.  IMG_2006OK…LIFTING THE LOGS.  No…we did not rent a boom truck like so many suggested…instead we used two-wheel pulleys with 5/8″ poly-line and lifting poles.  IMG_2009Again, Jack and Sharon teach a way of building that stays away from buying or renting huge/expensive equipment.  Actually, they are convinced(and so am I) that lifting poles work BETTR than a boom truck.  We dug holes in each of the corners inside the foundation walls.  Picked out four approx 6-7″ logs roughly 20′ long.  Placed them in the holes and used the rope to strengthen the poles from each direction.  I figure I used over 1600′ of 5/6″ poly line for this.  It starts to look like a circus tent.  At the top of the lifting pole I secured a heavy chain.  From that chain I hung one end of my pulley block system.
The other end stretched below to the log where a simple rope tied around it was fixed.  This is important to note.  IMG_1972The loose fitting rope around the log is there so that when it is pulled up and set into place we can use a pevy to roll the log to find the best fit on the wall.  IMG_1960Jack and I spent a lot of time and effort to not only choose the best log but when lifted into place to find the best fit.
Most every log has a curve(banana) to it…usually you ‘banana’ the log so it ‘bows’ out.  You don’t want to place the log with the ‘banana’ up or down…but either in our out(east or west).  You get the picture.  As the logs were placed we also spent effort on chainsawing any high points off the log…usually knots…that would allow a tighter fit.  IMG_2012Even with all that work there are still places with a 1 1/2 to 2″ gap.  This will all be taken care of with the chinking(which we waited to do until 2016 so the logs would shrink).
Lets talk about SHRINKING.  
Most log home builders insist on drying logs for 1-2 years before using them.  Again, Jack and Sharon teach a method of building that is not only affordable but skips the big long wait for good logs.  IMG_1979We put our logs up ‘green’.  Putting them up green means that yes they will shrink…but you wait to build your window frames until after the logs shrink.  Also as the logs shrink they are compressing down into the pins you’ve placed to give your structure even more strength.
This coming summer(2016) since we already have the foundation for our cabin poured and in place…we will be able to fall logs in April…peel logs in late April and by May 1st be stacking logs!  In 2014 we didn’t get to stacking logs on our garage until September 15th!  We should be up to the roof by end of May…whoohooo!  That’s 45 days after falling the trees!  Easy WorkSweet! First Log OK…what’s next…My engineer designed our plans with 3/4″ AT(all thread) rods coming out of the stem wall(foundation) every 4′.  This meant drilling holes corresponding to the AT through the sill log and lowering the log(14-16″ in diameter-30′ long and close to 1500lbs!) on to the 7-8 AT rods and hoping we had drilled plum and square.
Easy with a ‘stick’ home(2×8’s etc.) but with round logs and no drill press table large enough for 30′ timbers it was quite a task.  Ft SummerillWe used 18-24″ ship auger drill bits for the log drilling.
Jack and Sharon helped us with the first log but we were left to ourselves on the second log.  We had lowered the log to within 5″ of the sill plate when everything bound up.  IMG_9250We first tried using a 12lb sledge that got us to within 3″ then the bucket of our tractor to 2″.  I went to sleep that night trying to come up with a solution for the last 2″.  IMG_2406The next morning I got back up on the tractor…filled the bucket with gravel and tried again…the added weight in the bucket was enough to seat the log the final 2″ flush onto the foundation wall.  Solution making is part of every day…and I love it…except when I get stumped(no pun intended).
The method we used of laying logs is called “BUTT AND PASS”.  The first log starts at the corner then passes past the far corner by usually 2′ or less.  The next log butts to that log and passes the other corner by 2′ and so on and so on.  Important to note is that there are no ‘notches’ or any milling of any kind.  IMG_2427IMG_9257Brute On HighYou cut down the tree…peel it…cut it to length and stack it on the wall.  So many ‘kits’ or professionally built log homes today use a ‘Swedish Cope’ scoop cut or are milled in a number of ways to marry the two logs together.  These are sure nice and ‘tight’ but any of these methods require more time and experience and thus will cost more.  The Butt and Pass method is taught by Jack and Sharon as a method that is easily accomplished and the least expensive way to build a log cabin.  You might say it is more like an authentic pioneer method.  Personally I like this method because it gives me much more satisfaction because I accomplished it myself. Besides, I’m not a fan of kits…and I love the ‘look’ of the Butt and Pass.  OK…onward…your next question is “how did you hold all the logs together”?  5/8″ rebar…and LOTS of it!  My engineer called for a pin(5/8″ rebar) every 4′.  IMG_2479So every four feet we would drill a 1/2″ hole through the top log, being careful not to drill into the pin in the log below(stager pins).  The hole would only go through the top log…but we’d sledge hammer the 5/8″ oversized rebar through the top log and halfway into the next log(with no pilot hole)…to be sure of a very tight fit.  This was probably THE TOUGHEST job of the entire log structure.  Be sure to have plenty of young strong guys around…or in my case my best man who is not so young any more but strong and well…gullible.  IMG_2429You remember the story of Huck Finn and the white washing of the fence.  So…if you estimate that we had approximately 10 rows of logs plus the gable ends…that is close to 110 running feet per row…x 10 rows…that is 1100′ of logs…one pin every four feet leaves us with 275 pins…plus the gable ends…50 more x 2 ends…that’s 375 so far…oh, and I forgot to mention there are three more pins on each corner coming from all angles…that’s 40 corners x 3 = 120 more…so that’s 495 pins of 5/8″ rebar…all sunk by hand with a 10lb sledge hammer into 1/2″ drilled holes!
jackhammer rebarLot’s and lots of sledge hammering.  So much so that half way through we decided to rent a jack hammer.  That worked great when Rob welded a socket to the end so the rebar would fit inside and not slip off. IMG_9286 IMG_9329

 

 

 

 

 

Am I boring you yet…I’m boring myself actually…but I’m hoping that some of you will appreciate the detail…  Did I mention that we pulled the logs up onto the walls by using my jeep winch and our truck.  THE RIDGEPOLE  Wow…what an amazing feat to have the ridgepole in place.

IMG_9258The log was the largest, longest and heaviest of all our logs…18″ x 40′ x 1600 pounds!  And it had to be lifted the highest.  We chained two additional lifting poles to the existing posts on either end of the garage…added chain to the top(6-8′ higher than the posts) and added another set of pulleys.  I know this wasn’t quite as hard as building a pyramid but it seemed pretty complicated to me.  IMG_2465We lifted and changed ‘lift points’ and pulley sets maybe 10 times before we finally had our ridgepole laying on our first floor next to the posts.  IMG_2096We measured the posts according to the inside loft height we wanted and cut off the excess.  With the three rows of logs past the loft floor the roof pitch ended up somewhere between 5:12 and 6:12.  I am 6’3″ and I can walk 6′ either side of the ridgepole inside without hitting my head on the rafters.  Perfect!  IMG_9314After securing the ridgepole with 24″ lag bolts it was on to the rafters.  Since the logs were smaller(for the rafters 8″) we were able to lift them up by ourselves using the roped pulley blocks.
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SPEAKING OF RAFTERS…Jack and Sharon teach a great way to lift and position rafters.  IMG_9368First you lay two rafter logs cut at equal lengths overlapping them by 11″.  Clamp them IMG_9347together and drill a 5/8″ hole through both logs.  Push 5/8″ AT through both logs and bolt.  Now you have a long (double)log that will pivot in the center.  Drag the logs perpendicular to the roof, attach a length of chain to the log and hook the pulley system to the chain.  As you lift you’ll need to reposition the ‘pull point’ several times as the logs lift over the wall and even the ridgepole.  Eventually the lead half of the log will be pulled over the ridgepole and pivot over to the ridgepole and land on the opposite wall. IMG_2535 After a little positioning you now have one ‘set’ of rafters in place.  Easy!  Now, try doing this in the mud and rain.  After pulling 11 sets of rafters over the ridgepole we measured and placed them equal distances apart.
IMG_9392Each rafter was lagged into the ridgepole and wall logs.  We left an 8′ gable end overhang and a 4′ side overhang.  Overhangs are very important on a log home.  Water is your enemy.  The dryer you can keep your logs the better.  Our cabin will have 10′ gable end overhangs.  The next two days I spent pressure washing the logs.  IMG_9409Because of laying on the ground all summer the logs had developed a bad case of mold.

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The next step is the 2×6 TG(tongue &groove) decking on top of the rafters.  Remember, these rafters are trees…peeled…not milled to perfection.  Yes, we laid them as best we could to maintain a semblance of uniformity(levelness) but they looked pretty gnarly to me.  IMG_2603As we laid the 2×6 I watched for any ‘high’ spots and took care of them with the chainsaw.  We had a whole crew out to put up the 2×6 but it still took two days.  The weather was deteriorating since it was now into October so we didn’t get the metal roof up but instead had to settle with the famous ‘Blue Roof’…at least famous here in the state of Washington.

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Gallery  —  Posted: July 4, 2014 in Garage Foundation

Gallery  —  Posted: July 4, 2014 in Family

Our Well

Posted: June 20, 2014 in Well

IMG_2027 2At our initial meeting with Rob from Advanced Drilling we were told that our well depth would be approximately 120 feet deep…that is ‘well language’ for “I don’t have ANY idea so I will pick a number totaling the ages of my oldest son, my aunt Martha, my dog Bart and uncle Joe.”  Needless to say we were nervous.  At $34 per foot that meant around $4000.  We knew that Rob had 30 years of experience and was doing his best to give us an ‘educated guess’…but really…who knows what will actually be the depth.  IMG_1567IMG_1916We even had a ‘Witcher’ come out and walk around with his ‘witching rods’ and tell us where the water was.  I was skeptical but he turned out to be right.  OK so they set up the equipment and start drilling.  Things were very noisy during the drilling.IMG_1998 2  IMG_1575

After maybe 4-5 hours Rob informs us that he is 130 feet down with no water in ‘sight’.  His estimate based on the shale he was into was no better than 200 more feet!  Wow…ok…let me sit down…sheesh…what now?  We discuss the possibility of drilling down at the lower end of our property…1500 feet away.  The well there would probably be 60-80 feet…but the expense of pushing

IMG_1994 2IMG_1984that water up 1500′ to our building site would cost close to $15,000.  What now?  We asked if we could ‘sleep on it’.  Later that evening I get a text…his son had been on line and found other wells in the area that had the same ‘shale’ ground as us and he felt we’d find water within 100 more feet.  Rob offered to drill 100′ more without charging us extra if it was ‘dry’.  We would still be responsible to pay for the 120′ dry well if there was no water!  I didn’t have anything to loose so they began drilling in the same hole the next day.  Drum roll……within a few hours they hit wonderful cold fresh drinking water…after only 80 additional feet!  16 gallons per minute!  WhooHoo!   So…we did owe him for the 200 feet of well…but we were so happy that our well was here on our cleared land.  Thank you Advanced Drilling!

 

 

 

Peeling the logs

Posted: May 20, 2014 in Falling/Peeling Trees

IMG_1852 2We took 35 trees and cut them into 74 logs.  Each one needing their bark removed…by HAND!  It took 10 days to complete the job.  Over 80 hours total.  I had some help for sure.  Kevin and Dave…thanks!  As well as Neal, Craig and several others…thanks!  We used Cedar Spuds as tools.  I would start in the morning peeling approximately one each hour…later I slowed down considerably.  I used the winch on my jeep for moving the logs into groups after peeling.  Finally my pretty little jeep wasn’t a ‘poser’ but now carried its weight for sure!

IMG_1840 2There are only two ‘windows’ in a year you can fall trees and expect to have any luck peeling due to the sap ‘running’ under the bark.  One is in mid-April and the other is late summer.  April is best because you then have the summer to build.  The late summer would then force you to build in the more rainy and cold season of fall.  It is important to note that you have only a few weeks to peel the bark because of bugs and the bark drying thus causing much more effort.

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IMG_1824Terry and I skidded the logs to the top of his driveway where the log truck was to load.  We pulled out 56′ trees because that was about the longest we could drag between the other trees.  Prior to loading on the truck the trees would be cut in 32′ and a 24′ lengths to fit our log garage walls.

OK…picture this…you’ve just cut down 35 trees.  Lengths vary from 40-56′.  Diameters vary from 8-18″.  Now picture them all piled up in one huge PILE!  Now, they need to be cut to length, most of them, to fit on the truck.  You know that you need lengths of 32 and 24 feet…you even have a list.  OK…now you start your chainsaw and make your first cut…remember, a tree has taper…you’ve just measured 24 feet from the butt end so you have a smaller 32 footer.  Now you mix it up and measure the next cut from the butt at 32 feet.  Stager your cuts in other words.  In the IMG_8226middle of all that you loose your ‘count’.  You have no ‘secretary’.  Your a logger now…not a secretary.  “What’s the next cut Dave?”  Uhhhh…24….no, make it 32…wait….no, 24…is it at the butt or ?  Essentially I ended up using my brilliant ‘ball parking’ skills.  I kept muttering to myself “I sure hope this all works out”.  This is NOT the way I advise.  Have a clear idea of the log count…diameter…butt to top and length.  It’s part of the fun I guess.  Cut/purchase 20% more than you think you need is important.  Notice on a few of the photos that some of the logs are already peeled and he is still unloading logs.  The log truck broke down after the first load.  He came back a day later to pick up the second load.  That gave me enough time to peel 6-8 logs before he showed up with the IMG_1832 2second load.

These were some of the most exciting days of the summer(2014).  To watch those trees fall and be pulled out and loaded.  To see them actually show up on our property…wow…exciting.  I really had no idea what lay ahead for Bonnie and I as far as plain ‘ol hard work.  Sometimes it’s better to remain ignorant of the hugeness of the situation.  Take ‘one log at a time’ was our mantra.